Why The Piolet D’Or is Climbing’s Biggest and Most Debated Award

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Garibotti is aware the danger firsthand. By his tally, extra than 30 people he has roped up with have later died climbing. The Piolets d’Or 2 times tried to nominate Garibotti for the award, once in 2006, for a new route on Cerro Torre, in Patagonia, and once in 2009, for the initial traverse of the full Cerro Torre massif. Two times he refused.

Most shocking was whom the jury decided to honor in 1998: a Russian staff that created the to start with ascent of the west facial area of the Himalayan peak Makalu in 1997. Two of the climbers on the expedition died in the method. The organizers launched a new criterion after backlash that yr, requiring, in accordance to Trommsdorff, “that you have to occur back in a person piece.”

The trouble, in Garibotti’s viewpoint, is not that the awards inspire climbers to get extra risk, but that in awarding risky climbs, they validate dangerous behavior. “If you have representation of climbs that are reckless, there are heading to be more reckless climbs,” he explained.

After winning a Piolet d’Or in 2019 with his Slovenian teammates Ales Cesen and Luka Strazar, the British climber Tom Livingstone wrote in an essay on his site that the award “plays on my human ego” in worrisome means.

“I currently have a satan on my shoulder at the finish of a run-out” — a part of sparsely shielded climbing that can final result in unsafe falls — “who whispers, ‘uh oh, you are gonna take a huge just one!’” Livingstone wrote. “I don’t want another giving me a golden trophy.” He acknowledged the award only since his teammates wished to.

Of system, for lots of climbers, threat is a big part of the sport’s enchantment.

“We have to acknowledge that in common mountaineering, loss of life is a chance,” mentioned Reinhold Messner, 77, just one of the most lauded alpinists of the past century. “If it’s not a possibility, it is not mountaineering. The art of surviving is just that. It is an art.”