With a Little Help From Ye and the London Contemporary Orchestra, Burberry Delivered Joy (and Sparkly Flip Flops)

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The collection was punctuated with moments of pure joy, in high demand of late here in the UK. This season, Tisci wanted to keep things lighter. “We explored a new sensuality,” his show notes detailed. “I was inspired by the liberation and openness of youth, of people embracing their bodies and revealing them. This feels right and this feels Burberry.” Tisci looked to the great British seaside to inject personality and color into a collection that in previous seasons might have been dominated by black. Models in turn were beach-going cosplayers. “This collection is inspired by the beach as a place where humanity meets, a point where different worlds collide,” Tisci wrote. “In summer, in Britain, the beach is a place of democracy, of community. It is where people from all cultures can join together in simple pleasures.”

Luka Sabbat with extra sleeves.

Three bleached-blonde models walked out in silver-buttoned double-breasted suits cut from punchy teal, sunflower yellow, and cobalt-blue fabrics, corresponding flip-flops on their feet. These shoes, rather surprisingly, appeared across the entire Burberry collection. Like Ye’s own, some were drenched in crystals and worn with structured double-breasted suits, while others were inspired by poolside inflatables, blow-up holes included. In keeping with Tisci’s personal vision of the British seaside, there were sun visors and caps, while the valves of inflatable life vests were recast in metal as rings, as were shark’s teeth, which gave the collection some bite. Similarly, Tisci recast goggles as jewelry, set with crystal embellishments and strung necklace-like on models.